Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Architectural Detail







Just a few views of the Jerusalem International YMCA.

Sermon in Stone


The minute I walked up to the Jerusalem International YMCA, I felt a sense of peace.

As I reflected on the appearance of the buildings, I thought that the individuals who designed and built the incredible facility were like the great cathedral builders of the Renaissance period. Field Marshal Edmund Lord Allenby captured it best when he said, "The sentiment that has inspired the designers and builders of this monumental edifice should now move the nations to agree that now is the time and Jerusalem the place for ending their differences." He said that in 1933, but the words are still so very true.

The JIY founded in 1878, met in the early years near the Old City. It has a fascinating history related to World War I with the Turkish authorities and British troops. World War II also brought more soldiers to JIY. The 1948 War tore the city apart into Jordanian Arab and Israeli Jewish sides, and the International Red Cross recognized the uniqueness of the YMCA as a safe zone for noncombatents. The 1967 Six Day War brought... well, you get the idea. I will leave those stories for the historians who tell the details better than I could after only one visit.

Dr. Archibald Harte was the general secretary (CEO) at JIY who inspired James Jarvie to give a million dollars in the 1920's to help construct a permanent place for the YMCA in Jerusalem. Harte had a big vision for JIY and it was global. Jarvie saw that and help make it a reality.

When JIY purchased the plot on which it still sits today, it was high in the middle of desert land. But the vision was for it to hold a place that would serve as a beacon of peace and hope. The Greek Orthodox Church sold the land - my understanding is that the sale was itself unusual for the Church to part with such prime property.

JIY holds a prominent place in Jerusalem. Its commitment to being a safe space for the three monotheistic faiths is lived out each and every day. The unique mix of recreational community center, hotel, meeting space, restaraunt, kindergarten, and arts and humanities swirl together, truly in harmony.

The first thing that catches your eye if you approach from King David Street is a tile plaque that reads in Arabic, Hebrew and English "Here is a place whose atmosphere is peace where political and religious jealousies can be forgotten and international unity be fostered and developed." That is a quote from Lord Allenby as well. I have a plaque in my office that carries the message as well.

The JIY has remained faithful to those sentimients for generations. Leaders (staff and volunteer) have floated in and out of that time, but the utter devotion to mission is palpupable. The place just has a vibe about it that calms yet stirs deeper thought.

The campus has three sections representing symbolically spirit, mind and body. No matter where you look there is indeed a sermon in stone that causes you to stop, enjoy and ponder. Every nook has something in which to delight. Each space encourages dialogue.

Staff, members and guests flow in and out of the facility for various reasons - meetings, recreation, education, study and fellowship. I could have done little else other than observe for days on end. The people were fascinating in their diversity of ethnicity, language, age, dress and purpose.

The arches and domes of the faciliity are something to see. The Three Arches patio was a respite of peace. The flowers lovely, the small fish pond cool and the surrounding trees' visual beauty spectacular.

The old library while not fully in use any more was quiet, musty. Yet endearing. The librarian Ms. Rita made me smile just looking and listening to her. And twice during my stay a Jewish choir used the library at night to practice. Wonderful melodies wafting through the JIY.

The pool reminded me a lot of old downtown Ys in the USA - great original tile work that really stands out from our new practical pools. It was the only pool in Jerusalem until the 60's!

Where the soccer fields used to be behind the building, there is now construction for a huge development of condos, a public park and a YMCA recreational center (under ground). Those fields were once famous... as Jerusalem's soccer teams played Israeli and international teams.

The gym was small and reminded me of a rural high school gym, well other than the amazing domed ceiling! While I was there NBA players from the US came over from the Kind DAvid Hotel (across the street) to play a game.

The auditorium is state of the art in terms of acoustics and visual appeal. It hosts national concert and orchestral events. The Chamber Series was in play during my visit. And activists used the occassion to protest treatment of Arabs (not the Y's treatment, national treament). The JIY simply had a large gathering at which the group could throw their peaceful (yet slightly disruptive) protest.

The Peace Preschool is perhaps one of the most known portions of the JIY. Muslim, Chrisitan and Jewish children gather each day to learn and grow. A new facelift of cool murals and coats of paint as well as a new outside play space brought a lot of joy to the kids and their families.


The bell tower is of course one of the most recognizable parts of the JIY. Up close its stone work is incredible. You can see the tower from almost anywhere in Jerusalem. I used it as a navigational reference whenever I wondered out for walks.

The architect for the Jerusalem YMCA was with the same firm that designed the Empire State Building in New York. Arthur Loomis Harmon, who did the design, worked with Harte to make sure the buildings captured symbols from early Judaism, Islam and Christianity. Some of the stone work was from the same quarries of the Second Temple. I cannot do it justice but the pictures give the best idea of the stone work, lighting, cross-vaulted ceilings, inlaid tile work, murals, etc.

The way the place is laid out is symbolic of the trinity and of spirit, mind and body. The auditorium being one part of the U shape - for spirit and cultural activities. The middle section of the facility being for the offices, hotel, lounges, meeting rooms, kindergarten and library... representing the intellect. And the gym and pool being the other portion of the U shape, obviously for the body. Number symbols abound as well with 40 columns, 12 windows, etc. Bible and Koran scriptures adore stones, carved scenes tell stories.

Byzantine and Oriental styles aside, there was nothing like the views from the top of the tower. It allowed for a breath-taking snapshot of all city, mounts and deserts.

Oh, I just have to stop. You have to go. You have to stand in awe and walk with new surprises awaiting you as you turn each corner.